It takes 620 rock-cut steps to climb this stone
hill, It seems like 6200. But the treat at the top (3314 feet above sea level) is spectacular, a Jain temple and the central feature: “the largest man in the world.” He is just under 60 feet tall, carved out of grey granite somewhere around 980 A.D. His name is Gomateshhvara, or Bahubali, son of Adinath, who was the first tirtankara (“crossing 
one,” or great teacher) in Jain mythology. As the story goes, Bahubali was involved in a brotherly struggle to follow their father as emperor and tirtankara, but Bahubali realized the futility of such struggles, renounced his kingdom and all of the material world, and fled to the forest to meditate until enlightenment. He is depicted in this phenomenal statue in the nude, and with vines and even a cobra around his feet, signs of his total contentment and detachment from worldly matters.
one,” or great teacher) in Jain mythology. As the story goes, Bahubali was involved in a brotherly struggle to follow their father as emperor and tirtankara, but Bahubali realized the futility of such struggles, renounced his kingdom and all of the material world, and fled to the forest to meditate until enlightenment. He is depicted in this phenomenal statue in the nude, and with vines and even a cobra around his feet, signs of his total contentment and detachment from worldly matters. The statue is located in Sravanabelagola, a key Jain center here in South India. While most of the south has remained untouched by substantial non-Hindu presence, this particular area in Karnataka is the exception. In the 200s B.C., the first great Indian emperor Chandragupta Maurya renounced his rule and brought Jainism – a northeast Indian religion – here to Sravanabelagola. Jainism features a renunciation of the world, and one of its divisions takes this to the extreme of nude living, but most Jains are peaceful, simple people who find in the 24 tirtankaras, and especially the last one Mahavira, a model of spiritual living. The town is now a major Jain pilgrimage sight, and every twelve years thousands come here to pour milk, honey, and other signs of devotion on the great Bahubali. I was here at a less busy time, and I was thankful. On my way down the hill, I learned of a much easier way to get to the top – with dholis, strong men with a bamboo chair.
There are two other Jain temples here, a stunning older temple on a smaller nearby hill, and a “live” temple, where local Jains worship, called the Chandranatha Basti, with some of the most impressive paintings and carvings I have seen anywhere.I was taken to Sravanabelagola by a driver, Hamid, whom I hired for the day for $20. The drive was mostly enjoyable. At one point, he said “This road is not good;” I was looking for a road. Hamid is a Muslim – who stopped twice today to pray – and he has spent his entire life in Hassan. Muslims represent a slightly larger percentage of the population in this area, about 25%. He impressed me with his knowledge of the three religions here, as well as his comfort with the three living alongside each other.
He took me later to Belur and Halebid, two dusty farm towns on the edge of a more tropical area. 
Their temples represent the best examples of Hoysala Hindu culture, the dominant tribe around 1100 A.D. The temples have shorter tops and more expanse within the worship area, even having the slight appearance of an early Christian basilica. They are crammed with rock carvings of every possible god and most scenes in the great Hindu myths. They also feature a peculiar trait: no two columns are the same, with each having its own unique design.
The second of the two temples, the Hoysalesvara in Halebid, features two large granite bulls,
images of Nandi, the bull of lord Shiva. Nandi symbolizes power
and potency, among other things, and he can be seen throughout India. Yesterday on the way down another mountain, I found this very large Nandi, carved out of solid rock. Cattle of all sorts roam freely here, or have owners, or are viewed as common property for their fuel source. They also stop traffic,
and I am told that there are very large fines for hitting a cow while driving. I’ve spoken earlier about Hinduism and cows, but seeing these bull images deserved another comment.It is now 6:00 p.m. here, Thursday.
The sun is setting in this small town of Hassan. Cars, auto rickshaws, and trucks are honking. Construction workers are hammering. Crows are cawing. And the cool, 70 degree air is settling in. People are walking home, or to shop, or to meet friends and talk. Bicyclists negotiate for space among buses. Streetlights flicker on. This day slows down, and all is well.
All is normal. Just like in Lubbock, or wherever life moves on.
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